Hello everyone,
I recently bought a Mk-312BT.
When I tested it for the first time, I noticed that the performance of the device doesn't even come close to the 2B & my DIY device. Unfortunately, I don't know what this could be at the moment and I'm hoping I might get a helpful answer here.
If I don't set the MK-312 to at least 80% in medium power mode, nothing is noticeable. What could be the reason? With the 2B I can't even get above 40% in the LOW.
Did I buy some junk?! I have already opened the device and it looks neatly soldered and wired. Visually I can't see any problem.
I am grateful for every tip.
Best regards
Help MK-312BT no Power
Re: Help MK-312BT no Power
Normally 312 won't pass self-test at start if the voltage and mosfets aren't correct (it is rather sensitive).
Have you tried different modes? Do leds indicate operation when used? Have you tried adjusting MA knob?
Have you tried different modes? Do leds indicate operation when used? Have you tried adjusting MA knob?
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And in E-Stim Index: viewtopic.php?t=27090
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Re: Help MK-312BT no Power
The self-test returns ok F005.
Yes, I also tried different modes and the result is the same.
Yes, I also tried the MA button but it only does very little. The LEDs also flash corresponding to the pulses. I can also hear the device working (the up and down pulse)
This is what the device looks like after switching on. Adjust radio lights up constantly, is this normal?
Yes, I also tried different modes and the result is the same.
Yes, I also tried the MA button but it only does very little. The LEDs also flash corresponding to the pulses. I can also hear the device working (the up and down pulse)
This is what the device looks like after switching on. Adjust radio lights up constantly, is this normal?
Re: Help MK-312BT no Power
Yes, radio light is normal, unit probably has bluetooth module, that is why it is on.
You tested both outputs? (L/R)? What electrodes? I recommend just sticky pads to ensure that it works normally and get a feel of the sensation. Try leaving MA somewhere at middle and try increasing the volumes. I built several of these and there was never unit that started up fine and did not work, only thing that could be there is that solder for the 3.5mm jack is not good, but very improbable that both l and r channels are affected.
Also if you hear the unit, that is probably transformers, they produce sound, so that means unit is working fine, and only thing between transformers and cable are those 3.5mm jacks.
You tested both outputs? (L/R)? What electrodes? I recommend just sticky pads to ensure that it works normally and get a feel of the sensation. Try leaving MA somewhere at middle and try increasing the volumes. I built several of these and there was never unit that started up fine and did not work, only thing that could be there is that solder for the 3.5mm jack is not good, but very improbable that both l and r channels are affected.
Also if you hear the unit, that is probably transformers, they produce sound, so that means unit is working fine, and only thing between transformers and cable are those 3.5mm jacks.
My estim creations: https://mega.nz/folder/73pxmBBQ#X6ylDzRafzTt9wanZ0dacw
And in E-Stim Index: viewtopic.php?t=27090
Try creating your own estims with my restim script generator!
And in E-Stim Index: viewtopic.php?t=27090
Try creating your own estims with my restim script generator!
- Spoiler: show
Re: Help MK-312BT no Power
Hard to diagnose without a oscilloscope, but could be some wrong resistor values. Some values need adjusting to match different transistor batches. Or maybe wrong output transformers.
Can you upload a closeup of the output stage where we can see the color rings of the resistors?
I really do not like the threaded output jacks (inputs are fine). The front panel is a copper pcb and if the nut cuts through the thin paint, one half of the output will short to ground. That is obvious very dangerous. I think (hope) the erostek version uses a non-conductive front panel.
Have you contacted the seller? A minimum of quality control before shipping would be to test the output with a scope.
Also, if the bluetooth module is programmed correctly the radio led should be off until a connection is made, but not a big deal.
Can you upload a closeup of the output stage where we can see the color rings of the resistors?
I really do not like the threaded output jacks (inputs are fine). The front panel is a copper pcb and if the nut cuts through the thin paint, one half of the output will short to ground. That is obvious very dangerous. I think (hope) the erostek version uses a non-conductive front panel.
Have you contacted the seller? A minimum of quality control before shipping would be to test the output with a scope.
Also, if the bluetooth module is programmed correctly the radio led should be off until a connection is made, but not a big deal.