[RELEASE] Estim Bondage

[alexfayer]

Just a note: This tease was never designed or tested with anything else than a 2B device. I chose the files which produce the most pain possible with this unit. I was not aware however that left and right had different signals.

I want to add the possibility to change the audio files for analog/unfiltered devices. But I have no way of testing them. The tease and torture pages each consist of 5 random selected audio files. For the stories they are fixed but also use one of those 10 aufio files. So if someone could provide those files I am happy to add them, because I can't imagine the current signals being any fun with other devices :)

[unchain]

Just a note: This tease was never designed or tested with anything else than a 2B device. I chose the files which produce the most pain possible with this unit. I was not aware however that left and right had different signals.

I want to add the possibility to change the audio files for analog/unfiltered devices. But I have no way of testing them. The tease and torture pages each consist of 5 random selected audio files. For the stories they are fixed but also use one of those 10 aufio files. So if someone could provide those files I am happy to add them, because I can't imagine the current signals being any fun with other devices :)

Could you describe these 10 files more, and/or provide a download link? I'd be happy to tinker with it for other devices!

[alexfayer]

I finally found the unmodified files. Currently the peview of MP3 files of EOS does not work so it took me a while to find the files locally.

Those are the 5 pain files. There shouldn't be long breaks in between so shorter torture pages still work.
https://mega.nz/folder/up02lAhR#3X0juKSTf-mKVXvXH71wWQ

For the tease files just use anything thats pleasureable.

[genera-31]

Hi, I have a 2B and channel A shows up on it's display fine to give sensations, but nothing registers on channel B and can't feel anything. I know both channels work as I was estiming with other stereo files... is this only setup with left audio and not right?

[otto_dix]

Hi alexfayer

I continue to use your webtease, estim bondage, regularly. I tweak the settings until its really difficult for me to avoid cumming. I love the two boxed stories, #3 and #4. both are on the punishment side. #1 and #2 are more like teases.

More boxes stories would be great to have. I would like to make a suggestion. Have about 2 dozen boxed stories. 12 teases and 12 punishments. As part of the settings, you can choose how many boxed stories to include in a session and you can decide if you get teases or punishments, or a random selection of either teases or punishments.

The boxed stories break up the loop sessions nicely. I still dread it a bit when #3 appears.

Please consider adding more to this fantastic webtease.

Thank you,

Otto.

[zxpguy]

what does this mean Set your computer volume to the maximum your estim device can handle. Turn the volume up on my computer?? I have a b2 . after I attach it I turn up the volume until it hurts around 25%

[Electro]

what does this mean Set your computer volume to the maximum your estim device can handle. Turn the volume up on my computer?? I have a b2 . after I attach it I turn up the volume until it hurts around 25%

Assuming you mean 2B? The 2B, along with some other commercial estim devices has a maximum input volume that it can digitally convert audio up to and beyond that, it hits the "top of the range" early and you lose all of the volume nuances between a mid-range volume through the top and it causes a bunch of the feeling to be lost. To get around that, teases will have a function where you use the indicator on the estim device to match the high volume point that the device can handle using the calibration function designed for that purpose. It basically plays audio that matches(or may be a little higher than) the highest volume that would be encountered in the tease. So you don't wire up at that point yet, but you turn the input volume(computer, laptop, etc volume) up until it is just below the limit for your 2B. After this, you wire up and there is then a calibration where you set the output volume on the 2B to the volume you are comfortable with for the stim.

[zxpguy]

you turn the input volume(computer, laptop, etc volume) up until it is just below the limit for your 2B. That is my question. how do i know when its just below the limit. Is there something i need to be watching on the b2

[otto_dix]

Look at the display on the 2B as you raise the PC volume. You will see bars increasing. Turn up the volume until all the bars appear, then turn it down slowly until all but one bar appears on the screen.

[alexfayer]

I will not extend this tease any further, sorry.
Since BT Stim is not producing anymore I need to build myself a estim unit, but I don't know which guide to follow on here. There seem to be some variations and not a clear guide on how to build them. At least I couldn't find one. I need a high quality one, not one build from a 10$ sound card.

The E-Stim 2B is not suited at all for what I have planned for the next teases, so I won't be creating any more teases for this unit. The effort is much too high for what you get out of it.

[arig4711]

I will not extend this tease any further, sorry.
Since BT Stim is not producing anymore I need to build myself a estim unit, but I don't know which guide to follow on here. There seem to be some variations and not a clear guide on how to build them. At least I couldn't find one. I need a high quality one, not one build from a 10$ sound card.

The best and most reliable design in my opinion is the one on Smartstim.com. One Midistim design without need to solder (and really very easy), the other advanced one with need to solder (same basic functionality but more nice features). The instructions there are really good.

I have build such a stereostim and have also an 2b. In my opinion the 2b is not suited at all for audio stim. There are far too much restrictions (frequency, no smooth signals...).

[47dahc]

I will not extend this tease any further, sorry.
Since BT Stim is not producing anymore I need to build myself a estim unit, but I don't know which guide to follow on here. There seem to be some variations and not a clear guide on how to build them. At least I couldn't find one. I need a high quality one, not one build from a 10$ sound card.

The E-Stim 2B is not suited at all for what I have planned for the next teases, so I won't be creating any more teases for this unit. The effort is much too high for what you get out of it.

I built one using similar parts from this post. Only difference was I bought 10 watt resistors and used this TDA7297 amp board and then shoved everything into this box. Hardest part was finding all the pieces. Now that it's complete, I have been trying to come up with some good DIY trodes because I am a cheap SOB and really just like tinkering. I have achieved numerous HFO's in Chatroom, Clinic, and Mansion as well as a few CH videos once I get my trodes sitting correctly and making good contact with my skin.

Soldering is easy but understand the reluctance if you have never done it. I've been soldering for 30+ years and I still have issues every now and then. Like someone else said on here, you can use terminal blocks which is nothing more than a few screws to clamp wire together or you could even go with butt connectors. Only tools you'll need are a screwdriver to match the terminals or a set of crimpers which are cheap nowadays.

[Electro]

I will not extend this tease any further, sorry.
Since BT Stim is not producing anymore I need to build myself a estim unit, but I don't know which guide to follow on here. There seem to be some variations and not a clear guide on how to build them. At least I couldn't find one. I need a high quality one, not one build from a 10$ sound card.

The E-Stim 2B is not suited at all for what I have planned for the next teases, so I won't be creating any more teases for this unit. The effort is much too high for what you get out of it.

It sucks that you've met frustration with the 2B, but the good news is building a solid unit yourself is fairly easy and quick. Most of the components can be sourced from Amazon, when I bought mine a few years ago that wasn't the case.

High quality and tested components, the DIY option for putting together the Midistim design found on www.smartstim.com is a little over $100 in parts once you include shipping costs and it's easy to build. It's a design that's been around for a long time. Just don't say that Milovana sent you because the guy running the site doesn't like estim to exist off his website, he's like Smeagol/Gollum, he wants all of the precious(estim files) to himself inside of his pay-to-play walled garden. You don't need to pay to use the site or get the instructions for building a DIY setup. Apart from that, the actual people who helped design the Midistim and support the build in the thread are friendly. If you don't solder, the terminal blocks make assembly easy. Many people have opted to super glue the components to an appropriately sized aluminum plate to act as a heat sink, so you don't even need to drill the components to anything either. Just be sure to use thermal paste between the heat sinks and the aluminum paste, but the mounting legs can still be super glued. The assembly is literally securing purchased components in place and connecting wires to the right places.

The smartstim breaks down the suitable components for a Midistim, but here are the basics.
-Power supply that is double insulated with the right voltage and amps for the amplifier.
-Amplifier - The SMSL SA-36A Pro has been used for multiple years, they changed the design about 3 years ago and the Smartstim folks just figured that out now, they don't like the heat sink design, but the reality is there has been 3 years of use with nobody complaining that their amp died or had any symptoms of overheating. The new recommended amplifier is built by a different company, although I think the old one is still plenty good for estim use. I blast mine really hard including some constant high power routines four hours and it seems to be just fine.
-Headphone jack to RCA cable - Connects the amp to your computer or whatever audio source is.
-Speaker bullet connectors - These connect the amp to the resistor and the transformer. I bought one set(two wires in a set, red and black) and cut them in half because I only need the bullet end in the amp and this way I have a wire that connects to the proper spot on the components on the metal plate.
-Metal plate(or a metal project box like what is linked in the post right before mine is probably better) - You mount the resistors, transformers, and output connections to this.
-Two transformers - Speco T7010 on Amazon are the easy ones to get off of Amazon.
-Two 3.9 ohm 25 watt chassis mount resistors
-Terminal blocks to join the remaining wires for the components on the metal plate - although if you know how to solder, I actually consider this to be easier than trying to jam the nylon terminal blocks on to the resistor. Turns out the resistor leads for the resistors I bought were larger or the terminal block holders were slightly smaller. I ended up just squeezing the metal tab down with a needle nose pliers so they would fit. If you know how to solder, you can save a few bucks because these terminal blocks generally come in a huge bulk kit of 100+ and priced accordingly but you don't need that many.
-Output connectors to your electrodes - Since you are used to using 2B connectors, buy whatever jack that uses if you want to use the proprietary 2B cables that you were forced to buy, it'll be familiar to you that way. For everyone else, they would probably just use a raw wire end, in that case I suggest using Wago 221-413 Lever-nuts. These don't have the habit of breaking your wires or needing to fiddle with a screw terminal like the Smartstim folks deal with. I bought mine at the local hardware store for under $10 but are on Amazon too. They come in a 10 pack but you only need four. With these you can slip a wire between two of the terminals to make a common, each wire coming out of the transformer goes into one of the lever-nuts too. If you want to change your configuration, like swapping your common and a different channel, it's as simple as dropping the volume to zero, lifting the levers, swapping the wires, and dropping the wires down. The connections are SOLID and I've never broken a wire like I have with screw terminals or bullet connectors.

[alexfayer]

Thanks for all the help! I am very experienced in electronic, soldering and building stuff so this is not a problem for me. There are so many different guides on smartstim. I just don't know which to choose there. The drawings of shematics I see there do not look like nice instructions. A digital shematic from power, to audio input until the output would be very much appreciated.

Can someone link me to one?

[lolol2]

A digital shematic from power, to audio input until the output would be very much appreciated.

Can someone link me to one?

I'm rebuilding my DIY box at the moment and had already the plan to post my design with a detailed wiring diagram and shopping list of all needed parts in a tutorial thread here in the forum.
I also felt very lost when I have built my first box years ago and looks like nothing really changed over the years.

Will be online maybe tonight or more likely tomorrow if everything works like expected.

Edit: Done