Milovana.com

I was under the impression DIY was recommended primarily because it enabled triphase (and most/all commercial boxes except the discontinued et312b only do stereo) but is that really the case or is there more to a DIY than supporting triphase? Is that "more" somehow quantifiable in words?

I see 2b/3rdH for instance supports added triphase cables, would such a setup work as-is with the scripts/audios found here? Close enough (or at least the closest thing to be bought) to a DIY?

"triphase" is setup where you connect one wire from each channel together on same electrode (which is then called "common") and remaining 2 wires go to other 2 electrodes (so you get 3 in total).

You can try that on any unit, and depending on signal, might have more or less success - the "triphase effect" that funstim converters accomplish through phase-shifting of 2 very similar frequencies in both channels might not be felt on some commercial devices, but that still does not mean it will not be pleasurable.

Many of the teases here do not actually have one carrier frequency and triphase due to small differences between channels, so when playing these with commercial device you would get different experience but just different, not worse or better. Only funscript-converted estim (which is a bit newer and at the moment mostly available with video content) "works best" with diy device (due to no processing of signal).

And as last, if you do not understand the risks, then best option is commercial device and commercial triphase cable. I personally would never throw my money on triphase cables, as I normally just use these WAGO clamps to connect 2 together and then use 3rd socket to connect wire to electrode:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/222-413-Ladd ... 000JJPA66/

So it's not as much the triphase-support but the signal processing that sets a DIY apart form a commercial unit?

In another thread I found the following:

BoundSquirrel wrote: ↑Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:55 pm The difference between the 2B and the DIY boxes is that the 2B has advanced processing for handling incoming stereo sounds. This prevents sharp sounds from hurting you; basically it's got built in dummy-proofing to keep you from getting hurt trying to stim to your favorite rock album or porn video. If you're building and using a DIY box, the sound you give to the DIY box gives it right to your electrodes. If you send a sharp sound, it passes that on and, OW!

Can this processing be done for a DIY on the software side? Some kind of pre-processing of a script/audio file to filter out the unwanted sharpness before sending it in through the wire? Maybe using a regular software EQ? Or even a hardware EQ that sits somewhere between the laptop and the amp/stimbox?

fl0w wrote: ↑Tue Dec 06, 2022 9:23 am
Can this processing be done for a DIY on the software side? Some kind of pre-processing of a script/audio file to filter out the unwanted sharpness before sending it in through the wire? Maybe using a regular software EQ? Or even a hardware EQ that sits somewhere between the laptop and the amp/stimbox?

The problem with processing with DSP is that it changes the signal, it often uses its own carrier frequencies that then modulates (whether by frequency or amplitude) to introduce some diversity of signal that is controlled by input. You get much more uniform output but many of the intricacies of signal get lost (mostly from the triphase-intended signals as those need to have certain phase shift between channels that does not get through processing).

One easy and cheap way to add some pain-proofing to DIY box is high-pass filter with capacitor. Check the dedicated thread for exact value, but important is that it is bipolar capacitor, the capacitance value was between 100 and 330uF.