Milovana.com

Posted: **Sat Oct 02, 2021 3:53 pm**

Electro wrote: Sat Oct 02, 2021 2:40 am It should be a 12 volt double insulated power supply, a higher voltage does increase the output power.

Transformer tap was talking about the wires coming out of your Speco transformers. Purple wire is the 0.5w tap and is the same I'm using.

whooooops! I completely overlooked that original spec when I purchased the alternate amp and its "included" a power supply for convenience. The dangers of swaying from the original build eh? Good thing it wasn't a bigger mistake. In my defense though, I did pore over the post @hosenguy made about 100Wx2 amps and 24V power supplies, but thinking that my amp's specs matched the original at 50Wx2, it'd been okay. And yes, now that you pointed it out, yes, I also put thought in whether I should use the 0.5w or higher tap for a "milder" experience, I just wasn't realizing it in the right terms.

I tried the volume trick and it helped. Also am learning from experimentation about the placement of the different types of electrodes and am settling in with their distinct feels. I think now that the original stim site is unavailable to us n00bs, there is a lack of nuanced information in this respect on milovana here. :) The units get a lot of discussion, but as it were, I had to research electrodes elsewhere. It's starting to change tho. Now that more people are getting into this, I'm starting to see stuff like trode placements and this is good stuff.

@electro, thanks for clarifying and the good advice!

Posted: **Sun Oct 03, 2021 3:11 pm**

@InfamousPlantain

The watt value of the resistors is just power handling ability. The ability to dissipate heat. 10 watts should be fine. I just got the 25W for about the same price.
It's the ohm value that sets the dummy load, to give the amp a constant, minimum load to push against. Should be 4 ohms.

I only turn it up between 1/4 and 1/3 max. I didn't do any sort of independent volume or balance control because I've got the electrode surface area such that I don't need it, and I could always use the computer controls if necessary. The more surface are of an electrode, the less apparent sensation. But don't use an electrode with a total surface less than about 2 square cm that is in contact with the body.

Sorry for taking to long to reply. The @username doesn't seem to do any notification.

Posted: **Sun Oct 03, 2021 3:21 pm**

@JakofClubs

Thanks for affirming what I've been experiencing. With so many variables for this newbie to work with, I'm gleaning good insight from your reply. And no worries about the delay. Such is the nature of forums! Thanks!

Posted: **Sun Oct 03, 2021 3:55 pm**

I made a version of this stim box with the Doku/NobSound/Breeze Audio amp built inside, with the dummy load resistors and transformers.

: JoC_stimbox_front2.jpg (39.12 KiB) Viewed 4218 times

Here's some pictures of the internal wiring. It will run for hours at 1/4 to 1/3 volume and not get warm.

Spoiler: show

: JoC_stimbox_top.jpg (691.58 KiB) Viewed 4218 times

: JoC_stimbox_Right1.jpg (367.52 KiB) Viewed 4218 times

: JoC_stimbox_Right2.jpg (764.29 KiB) Viewed 4218 times

: JoC_stimbox_Left1.jpg (397.65 KiB) Viewed 4218 times

: JoC_stimbox_Left2.jpg (764.6 KiB) Viewed 4218 times

Posted: **Mon Oct 04, 2021 1:25 pm**

nice. I'm here just thinking of adding a bluetooth module to mine after I saw @puste's setup. But of course, I'd end up with yet another box, since they're all external.

Posted: **Mon Oct 04, 2021 1:31 pm**

InfamousPlantain wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 1:25 pm nice. I'm here just thinking of adding a bluetooth module to mine after I saw @puste's setup. But of course, I'd end up with yet another box, since they're all external.

Some of these small class D amps have Bluetooth built-in, but I can't say if those amps are any good when used for stimming, which is outside of what they were designed for.

Edit: This appears to be the Bluetooth version of the amp I'm using. But i haven't actually used it.

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetoo ... B07GBPKD49

Edit2: I'm just going to mention that the original, SmartStim tested and recommended Doku/NobSound/Breeze Audio amps are hard to find on Amazon and Ebay. The original amps look like the one in my build post above.
My advice, in lieu of actual stress testing, is to NOT buy the cheapest TPA3116D2 amp you can find but get one with a decent heat sink and a good build quality from a reputable seller. Power them with a double insulated 12v 5A power supply.

Edit3: 50Wx2 is plenty of power for the amp, using a single TPA3116 chip. I'm seeing a lot of these on Amazon/Ebay using two chips and claiming 100wx2 or 200w.

So far, no one has posted any bad experiences with the inexpensive amp in the first post in this thread. If this is not the case, please correct me.

Posted: **Sun Nov 07, 2021 2:50 am**

so I built this as listed in the first post (top image, different power supply (tried a couple just in case)) but it would seem I have run into a slight problem. According to a few there should be plenty of power from this setup but when I try it I can easily max out the Amp and the amps input volumes with little issue. would anyone happen to have any ideas why I'm getting so little power from the unit?

Posted: **Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:09 am**

Storm123 wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 2:50 am so I built this as listed in the first post (top image, different power supply (tried a couple just in case)) but it would seem I have run into a slight problem. According to a few there should be plenty of power from this setup but when I try it I can easily max out the Amp and the amps input volumes with little issue. would anyone happen to have any ideas why I'm getting so little power from the unit?

what do you mean with "a diffrent power supply"? you need 12V DC power supply!!
if you have 12 V DC power than, try an pulsiv signal. if a pulsiv audio signal will not help try it without the two 4 Ohm resistor. If all not work, than your amplifier is defect

Posted: **Mon Nov 08, 2021 12:18 am**

I have just ordered an SMSL amp to begin a build project. Looking forward to seeing how a DIY set-up compares to my 2B.

Posted: **Mon Nov 08, 2021 3:24 pm**

Today, I have ordered a couple of transformers and some resistors from Mouser, for delivery to the UK.
Bought the Visaton TR 10.16 transformers and 3r9 25w and 12r 25w resistors, to possibly try putting them in like one of the other designs.
Getting excited now about getting everything together and making the unit.

Posted: **Mon Nov 08, 2021 4:10 pm**

InfamousPlantain wrote: Thu Sep 30, 2021 2:39 pm
JakofClubs wrote: Wed Jan 20, 2021 4:46 pm

I liked it so much a did a cleaner, minimal design with the recommended amp from SmartStim.com

Spoiler: show

So, after rereading this and the other thread many times, I finally built the variation @JakofClubs posted above (thanks!) ... almost exactly like it...

Spoiler: show
IMG_0969 (3).jpg
IMG_0970 (3).jpg
As a first time stimmer, geez, this thing was strong! I feel like I couldn't turn the nobsound amp's volume past 20%! Did I wire something off or is that somewhat expected? I mean, the wiring looks so simple in this setup, which was one of the reasons why I gravitated towards it.

On closer inspection, I do realize that I am using the originally recommended 10w resistors from the original build and not the 25w ones used in @JakofClubs' build, but would that cause that?

@lolol2, I did read about you mentioning the difference in volume required for anal trodes vs ones attached outside and I thought I encountered this issue. Made the mistake of calibrating on the anal one and got a pretty literal shocking experience on the glans one Recalibrated for glans, and no longer felt the anal one, unless I somehow got the anal one disconnected. This time around, I used all rubber loops. Would that contribute to the problem? @JakofClubs, do you notice this problem on your build with the nobsound amp?

Other n00b mistakes included not realizing that the drilled project box holes actually were conductive so I had to insulate all my banana plug jacks, realizing that I should probably insulate the banana plugs that attach to the electrodes, making a whole mess between lubes and electrogels, still trying to find that perfect sweet spot. I think I hit it sometimes, but lose it just as easy. That volume control is just too sensitive.

But at the end of everything, I did get a good release -- just not properly through the intention of the tease (@lolol2's legendary estim tower). Well, already planning "fixes" and thanks to @cl13a, @hosenguy, @JakofClubs, and everyone here for their shares!

How many fixing posts are there on the back of your switches? Any chance of a quick diagram showing how they're wired? Thanks.

Posted: **Mon Nov 08, 2021 7:31 pm**

phoopha wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 4:10 pm

How many fixing posts are there on the back of your switches? Any chance of a quick diagram showing how they're wired? Thanks.

They are Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) switches with 4 posts each. For the power switch, each pole cuts one channel's black wire just so I didn't need 2 separate Single Pole (SPST) switches. If you want to cut power separately, you will need to separate out the switches. OR if you don't care about cutting power, you don't need them at all. It's not part of the original design. For the tri-phase switch, only one pole is used. Could've went with a SPST but eh, just hitting qty2 was easier on ordering and probably more uniform on the look.

The idea and diagrams are based on the three former posts in this thread by CaliPhotoDude and Hosenguy

viewtopic.php?p=297806#p297806

Posted: **Mon Nov 08, 2021 11:35 pm**

InfamousPlantain wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 7:31 pm
phoopha wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 4:10 pm

How many fixing posts are there on the back of your switches? Any chance of a quick diagram showing how they're wired? Thanks.
They are Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) switches with 4 posts each. For the power switch, each pole cuts one channel's black wire just so I didn't need 2 separate Single Pole (SPST) switches. If you want to cut power separately, you will need to separate out the switches. OR if you don't care about cutting power, you don't need them at all. It's not part of the original design. For the tri-phase switch, only one pole is used. Could've went with a SPST but eh, just hitting qty2 was easier on ordering and probably more uniform on the look.

The idea and diagrams are based on the three former posts in this thread by CaliPhotoDude and Hosenguy

viewtopic.php?p=297806#p297806

Is there any particular specification regarding voltage or amps?

Posted: **Tue Nov 09, 2021 8:06 am**

phoopha wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 11:35 pm
Is there any particular specification regarding voltage or amps?

I won't claim to "know" this one, but I went by what hosenguy said in the other post

"In both uses the switches require less than an amp by a bunch. So if it handles around 150 Volts, or more, it likely will work."

The ones I got were standard 120V ones. I can't imagine much lower ones not working based on such low amperage that we're passing through on the output side.

Posted: **Tue Nov 09, 2021 11:44 am**

InfamousPlantain wrote: Tue Nov 09, 2021 8:06 am
phoopha wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 11:35 pm
Is there any particular specification regarding voltage or amps?
I won't claim to "know" this one, but I went by what hosenguy said in the other post

"In both uses the switches require less than an amp by a bunch. So if it handles around 150 Volts, or more, it likely will work."
The ones I got were standard 120V ones. I can't imagine much lower ones not working based on such low amperage that we're passing through on the output side.

Thanks. I'll get some ordered. Quite like the idea of one of those with the cover, like on the trigger of a fighter plane.

Thinking about wire, I know it has been mentioned that 1.5mm is used, but I was wondering whether multifilament bell wire or speaker wire would be suitable?

Milovana.com

Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)

Re: Low-cost (~$40-60) DIY Stereo E-stim for Audio Input (based on TroniC's MidiStim)