Cheap self-made inescapable belt for long-term chastity

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flash
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Cheap self-made inescapable belt for long-term chastity

Post by flash »

If you check my forum post history you'll see I've been experimenting with chastity devices for a while, and after much hard work and some tiny epiphanies regarding how long-term belts would have to be created to be sustainable, I've finally come up with a "permanent" belt solution, or at least as much as I think it could ever be. The best part is it's extremely cheap to make (around 30 dollars total, american). This post will be long, but I promise you it'll be worth it since most of my knowledge has come over years of experimentation and it'll only take you 1/1000th of that time to read it.


The cage:
First of all, and perhaps disappointingly to some of you, I think a requirement for 9/10 of you (including me) is to get a fitted metal chastity device, this cannot be built at home like the rest of the harness. Sadly, everyone is just so differently shaped down there that any device that is not very form-fitting will cause chafing that is impossible to deal with full-time. While I was just getting into chastity I purchased probably 4-5 different cheaper devices and every single one was poorly made and caused damage after more than 2 days of wearing. While discomfort can be part of the "fun," skin damage just can't if you're looking for something that you can stay locked in for 1 month or more. Similarly, one absolute requirement of the chastity devices is that it is not always snug to your skin. It'll definitely get snug when you have an erection, but when you are not stimulated at all and at your most flaccid, there needs to be a small gap for air circulation or your skin will die. I don't think having lube on your cock 100% of the time for weeks on end is good for the skin either, and first and foremost for my requirements of chastity, I don't want permanent damage (or really even short-term damage). So unfortunately, this step is expensive for most people, but buying a custom fitted metal chastity belt is in the end cheaper than buying a $50 dollar knock-off brand one every couple months to hope that it works. I don't have any ties to any of these manufacturers, but if there's interest I'll tell you the brand I settled with and have had great results with.

Cage Harness Requirements:
So here's where permanent chastity really comes into play. If I just wore my metal device or my knockoff CB6000, I could easily pull out the top and play with myself, or even worse, it would just naturally slide down at night or while walking. Even if it didn't slide down, I would get some chafing on my skin where the friction held the weight of the device in place, along with the force of my erection. There are some "teeth" style inserts that cage companies have to try to prevent this, but I do not like this option as it creates even more soreness against the skin. Holding the device in place at the top with a belt can alleviate all of these issues, so at first I looked into just wearing a belt under my clothes that had a string attached from it near my belly button to the top bar of the cage. This did a great job at keeping the cage in place from above, preventing both friction caused by walking and gravity, but sadly it did not prevent erections to the extent I had hoped for. While the top of the cage was much more firmly held in place, the bottom ring that went around my balls was not, so it could still lift up and allow me a few inches of erections.

Preventing the movement of the ring around the balls is not too difficult if you have a string/rope/cable attached from each side of the belt that wrap through the bottom of the ring of the cage. When this is tightly attached, it will hold that ring in place and prevent erections from pulling the chastity cage away from the body.

Overall this means that to hold the cage in place, you need something from the belt wrapping around the top of the chastity cage to support its weight, and two strings from either side of the belt to wrap down and tie to the bottom of the wring underneath your balls.

Materials:
Initially I had used a cloth belt for a few months that had a brass loop that I could tie a string to in the front, and I tied strings around the side of it to go down to the bottom of the ball ring. This proved annoying as I'd have to untie all of it to take a shower, or I'd have to have a wet cloth belt on all day underneath my clothes. You need something that will prevent water from absorbing, but is also able to be worn against the skin without damage. In the end I settled on a chain mail belt as it is easy to make yourself and cheap, so you can customize it as much as you want.

For the string/rope/cable attaching the belt to the top of the cock cage and bottom of the balls rings, originally I tried a thin chain that I bought at a hardware store. The huge problem with this was that when you sit on a chain it can really dig into your skin if you're on a hard chair, and the two connections to the balls ring go right under either side of your butt cheeks. Then I
went with a thin rope I got at a hardware store that was soft to the touch but quite strong, but water absorption was still a problem. If I took a shower in the morning it would soak up enough water to be annoying throughout the day. Finally, I found a solution in a plastic-coated wire that gets the best of both worlds in that it's soft to the touch but also water resistant. You do need to buy the "Cable Ferrules" that come with it so that it'll attach easily.

Lastly, after trying out the first chain mail belt I made, I realized I would need to increase the strength of the places that I attach the cables to, because if you attach it to a single tiny loop it will break. To do this I used Key Chain rings threaded through a large number of the tiny mail loops, so that the cable force is now spread across them more evenly.

Here's a list of similar items you'll need. None of these are necessarily the ones I used and you can easily switch out for a similar brand/type.
Chain mail rings: http://www.amazon.com/Chainmail-Joe-Bri ... B00B0G7SCQ Any type will work, and this is plenty to make way more than just a belt. To work with this you'll need Pliers and I recommend something like http://www.amazon.com/Beadsmith-Opening ... WHJRRZ2QRY or it'll be difficult.

Plastic-coated Wire: Something like http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman- ... /202497552 but you don't need 100 feet. I recommend using a piece of string to get an idea of what length you want in the end. Get (at least) two of these that fit the cable thickness: http://www.amazon.com/DayMark-7670724-C ... B0049WREBS

Key Chain Loops to enhance the structural integrity of the cable attach points on the belt, anything like: http://www.amazon.com/Shiny-Metal-Doubl ... hain+loops

Any small-linked chain to attach the front of your belt to support the top of your cage (as this doesn't touch your skin often, it doesn't really matter too much as long as it can thread through your chastity cage).

Picture:
Image

This is an image when it is not locked shut, it's just here so you can see what I mean about the cable underneath and general construction. To lock the belt you connect the two keychain rings on the sides of this image with a lock, and you'd have to put a chain running from the lock underneath the top bar of that chastity cage.

Construction Tips:
Look online for how to make Chain Mail, it's incredibly easy and an entire belt took me maybe 3-5 hours after messing up a couple times. You'll definitely want pliers and a holding ring or 2 pliers though. I recommend a belt 5 rings tall, as seen in my paint image, as anything less will probably not be strong enough, and more might be too big.

Looping the keyrings through should be fairly easy as long as you're going with the pattern, though it won't matter too much overall. They're just there to spread the forces across all rings better, as I broke a previous belt attempt without them.

Make sure you crimp the end of the green cable well so that there isn't any lose wire bits hanging out that can tear fabric. You should be able to crimp them outward to "lock" them in place, then crimp them in on themselves to get the pointy end completely covered.

Locking it on:
The total belt and cage function with only 2 locks (that can have the same key if you get a set). From the image, wrap the two ends of the belt around to meet in the front of your body, and put on the cage. The cage can be locked at this point. Then, attach the second lock through the 2 keyrings and through a small chain. Thread the small chain through the top bar of your chastity device (near where the lock is attached in the above type of device), then lock it shut along with the two clasps of the belt.

Long-term tips:
Two main tips for keeping comfortable, especially at night when most of the chastity pains occur:
The first tip is to put some padding around the belt that you change out regularly. Microfiber cloth is actually perfect for this, as I've tried using socks and the grain (?) of the stitching pressing into you over a long period of time can feel like burning, but microfiber cloth doesn't do that. Here are the 3 places I put padding if I'm getting any chafing at all:

1. Underneath the penis where the balls and penis are met by a steel bar. Rubbing here can give you issues so I highly recommend buying a bunch of microfiber cloths for cheap and pushing one in there that you change out once in a while like you would any other piece of clothing (pushing it in to position can be hard but is doable).

2. Underneath the balls, where the green cable can sometimes pinch skin/hair. Again, regularly keeping a microfiber cloth there and switching it regularly is all you need to do.

3. Just above the cock, where the cage can press against your body. This one doesn't happen as often, but you can use anything from a Tissue to a sock here, I've found, if it is an issue.

4. The tip of your cock. Since it is held in place by steel, it can rub against the inside of your pants and be extremely painful under the wrong types of rubbing. If you push a piece of tissue inside your cage just to keep your tip from hanging out when you get excited, it does wonders.

At night I highly recommend using a big sock to separate the balls ring from your body, as sometimes it just being held against your body might create the feeling of bruising (this has only happened if I keep it on for a week or more)

The second tip, aside from padding/cloth, is to lotion your cock after a shower. For some reason, just keeping it separated from your balls can tend to dry the skin out (skin oils and all that, I assume), and after extended time without being let out of the cage I'd have some skin sloughing off. Lotion once per shower fixed that.

Inescapable?
Nope, like any belt it isn't completely inescapable. But this one is completely inescapable without destroying it completely. You could totally cut through the belt with wire cutters to disable it and then pull your cock out of the cage and masturbate, but if you have a keyholder there's no way to do that without them knowing.

Without destroying it, however, if you make the cable and chain attached to the belt snug enough, you will not be able to slip out of it to the top or sides. As long as it is locked, it prevents virtually all forms of erection, and you really get that "trapped" feeling.

Large post, I know, but I hope at least one other person can learn from me. I've finally done it, finally achieved sustainable chastity without damage!




(what have I done!?!? hahaha)
hotiger1
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Re: Cheap self-made inescapable belt for long-term chastity

Post by hotiger1 »

:w00t:
Thank you so much; I don't need an inescapable chastity, but I always had the problem with an erection stretching the cock cage away from the body. Now I secure it as described with pantyhose - perfect :)

hotiger1
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